Grubs are one of the fastest ways to ruin a healthy lawn. These white, C-shaped beetle larvae chew through grass roots, leaving behind brown, patchy, and dead turf that peels back like a carpet. If you’re seeing thinning grass, loose sod, or animals digging up your yard, you need to act quickly.
At Keystone, we’ve restored hundreds of grub-infested lawns into some of the healthiest, best-looking yards in Pittsburgh. If you suspect a grub infestation in your yard, it’s the right time to call a professional.
In this guide, we’ll show you exactly how to confirm whether grubs are the problem, the best treatments to use, when to apply them, and how to repair your lawn so the damage doesn’t come back.
What Is Grub Control?
Grub control services kill and prevent beetle larvae before they destroy your lawn. These larvae feed on grass roots, cutting off the plant’s ability to absorb water and nutrients. Left untreated, even a small grub population can quickly turn into widespread brown patches and dead turf.
There are two main approaches to grub control:
- Preventive treatments stop eggs from hatching or kill very young grubs before they cause damage.
- Curative treatments target active grubs already feeding on your lawn.
The key is knowing which type to use and when because mistimed applications won’t work.
Is Grub Control Necessary?
Yes, if you actually have grubs at damaging levels. Not every lawn needs treatment every year. A few grubs in the soil are normal and won’t hurt your grass. Problems start when you find more than 6–10 grubs per square foot. At that point, roots can’t keep up, and you’ll see thinning turf, brown patches, and animals digging for food.
Grub control is necessary when:
- You confirm an infestation through a simple cut-and-lift test.
- Damage is visible. Grass pulls up easily, animals are tearing up the yard, or large patches are dying.
- Your lawn has a history of infestations. If you’ve had grub damage before, preventive treatment can save you from repeat problems.
If none of these apply, you may not need treatment this year. The goal is targeted control, not blanket applications. If you’re not sure whether
When Is the Best Time to Put Down Grub Control?
The right timing depends on whether you’re using preventive or curative products.
- For preventive grub control, apply in late spring through early summer, before beetle eggs hatch. These treatments work best against very young grubs just starting to feed.
- If you’re doing a curative grub control, use it in late summer through early fall, when grubs are actively feeding close to the soil surface. This is the only window when “kill it now” products will work.
Applying at the wrong time is the biggest mistake homeowners make. Preventives won’t work on fully grown grubs, and curatives won’t do anything if the grubs have already gone deep for winter.
If you’re not sure which treatment fits your situation, start with our FREE lawn assessment. Confirming whether grubs are present and their stage of growth will tell you exactly when and what to apply.
Is It Too Late This Year?
Right now, in mid-September, you still have a short window for curative grub treatments in most parts of the U.S. Grubs are at their hungriest in late summer through early fall, feeding near the soil surface and causing the most visible damage. If you can pull up patches of grass easily and see the white, C-shaped larvae underneath, a curative product can still work.
But once cooler weather sets in and the soil drops in temperature, typically by late October in northern states, grubs will burrow deeper, and treatments won’t reach them. At that point, it’s too late to treat this season. If you miss the window, focus on repairing any damaged turf and plan to apply a preventive treatment next spring or early summer to stop the next generation before it starts.
Which Grub Killer/Control Should You Buy?
The product you choose depends on timing and what’s happening in your lawn. Always match the product to the season and the condition of your lawn.
Curative Grub Control
If you’re dealing with active damage in late summer or early fall, you need a curative grub killer. Look for active ingredients like carbaryl or trichlorfon. These work fast against grubs feeding near the surface and can limit further damage.
Keep in mind that curatives don’t stop new grubs from appearing next year. They’re a short-term fix to protect your lawn now. Apply them at the edges of visible damage where grubs are actively feeding, and make sure to water the product in so it reaches the root zone.
Preventive Grub Control
If you’re planning ahead, choose a preventive grub control. Products with chlorantraniliprole (Acelepryn) or imidacloprid (found in many GrubEx-type products) target grubs when they’re still tiny, before they can chew through your roots.
Preventives are best applied in late spring to early summer, before beetles lay eggs or before those eggs hatch. Unlike curatives, these give your lawn season-long protection and are generally considered safer for kids and pets when used correctly.
If you’re not sure which type of grub killer to use, start with a simple check. Cut and lift a small section of turf at the edge of a brown patch. Count the grubs. If you see more than 6–10 per square foot, act now with a curative. If you don’t, mark your calendar for a preventive application next spring or summer.
Will Grub Control Fix My Mole and Skunk Problem?
Not always. It’s a common assumption that if you get rid of grubs, the digging animals will disappear, but that’s only partly true. Moles, skunks, raccoons, and even birds do dig up grubs, but they also feed on earthworms and other soil insects. That means even after a successful grub treatment, you could still see animals tearing up your lawn.
If you have obvious grub damage and animal activity, treating grubs will reduce one of their food sources and may lessen the problem. But if moles or skunks stick around, it’s likely because they’ve found plenty of earthworms in your soil. In that case, grub control alone isn’t the solution. You’ll need to address the animals directly with exclusion, repellents, or trapping if they’re causing serious damage.
What About New Sod or Wet Yards?
New sod and consistently wet yards are especially vulnerable to grub and other soil pest problems. In freshly laid sod, the root system is still shallow and weak. Even a small number of grubs can sever roots and keep the sod from ever establishing. If you’ve just installed sod, preventive treatment is often worth the investment, especially if your lawn or neighborhood has a history of grub issues.
Wet yards come with a different challenge. Moist soil attracts pests like crane fly larvae (leatherjackets), which can cause damage similar to grubs. In these conditions, drainage and soil management matter just as much as treatment. Aeration, improving runoff, and reducing excess thatch can all make the environment less attractive to pests.
For either situation, new sod or wet lawns, beneficial nematodes can be a safe, effective option. They thrive in moist soil, attack a range of soil-dwelling pests, and are safe for kids and pets. Multiple applications may be needed, but they can provide protection where chemical options aren’t always ideal.
Get A Full-Service Lawn Care in Pittsburgh, PA.
Grub control is important, but it’s only one piece of keeping a lawn healthy. Most of the time, grub damage is made worse because the lawn is already stressed—thin turf, compacted soil, poor drainage, or a weak root system. That’s why a full-service approach works better than a one-time fix.
If you suspect grub activity or want to prevent it altogether, now’s the time to act. Call Keystone today to schedule professional grub control and a complete lawn care plan tailored to your yard. We serve homeowners in and around Pittsburgh, PA, including Fox Chapel, Cranberry Township, Wexford, Sewickley, Franklin Park, Indiana Township, and Allison Park.